80/20 Eighty Twenty Bangkok, One Michelin Star – Signature Menu by Head Chef Andrew Martin

2 April 2023 Gwendolyn

80/20 Eighty Twenty, Bangkok’s one-starred Michelin restaurant from 2020 to 2023, delivers an eclectic menu of Thai dishes, cleverly executed with a creative mind while paying homage to local produces.

The chic industrial design of the restaurant instantly draws me in. It is spacious and despite the open kitchen concept, the chefs work peacefully. Occasionally, head chef Andrew Martin would come by to serve and explain the course, which feels really wholesome.

The Signature Menu THB 3900 comprises of snacks, appetisers, mains and desserts, alongside interludes of palate cleansers. Elevate the experience with Wine Pairing THB 2500 and/or craft cocktails – the Tanqueray London Dry Gin-infused NHAM-DOKMAI THB 400 and SOI 26 THB 400 are pretty refreshing.

The first course begins with two light snacks. The Khanom Buang is a mini crispy Thai crepe, filled with hamachi, prawn, red onions and a dollop of glistening caviar. Seasonal Fruit of the day is the Longan pop, topped with basil leaf and lychee gel. Both presentation are beautiful.

On a more flavoursome note, the Moo Hom Mangda features a satisfying crackling skin and fatty pork meat, balanced with sliced rose apple and gooseberry.

A tangy and limey Jungle Juice follows next, infused with sweet chilli and pineapple vinaigrette sauce, I think.

For appetisers, their respective sauces are served from the table side. There is the fiery spicy Pla Mamuang (amberjack sashimi with mango and coconut), Gai Yang Prik Sapparot (succulent grilled chicken), Tom Yum Yee-Poon (bouncy Hokkaido scallops and sea grape in miso-infused tom yum soup) and Ped Yim Yim (a trio of chestnut, glutinous rice and tender duck in superb crispy skin).

A perk-me-up before the main course, the Lao Khao presents a delicate scoop of toasted rice sorbet flanked by grapes marinated in dessert wine.

Gap Khao, which means ‘with rice’ in Thai, boasts a variety of communal-style dishes that would go with the staple. The lavish feast spreads across the table – each dish uniquely prepared with different ingredients and seasoning, and an inviting amalgamation of colours and taste.

Dig into the hearty Gaeng, a sumptuous curry stew of lamb chunks with chickpeas and tea leaves. It’s earthy, comforting and hearty as a portion.

Another highlight is the Slow Grilled Beef with juicy marbling. Sharing the limelight on the same plate are sweet cucumber rounds, fried pork skin and smoked fish relish with a spicy tang.

Moo Pad Puan Kin, which I am calling the moonlight pork, is an alluring plate of stir-fried red pork in sweet black sauce, accompanied with jute leaves, fermented cabbage and a raw egg yolk. Savour each bite with the coconut jasmine rice. You know the rice’s cooked in the claypot when it is served with a little scorched surface.

The Pla Tod might appear unassuming, but it’s so good I wish it is sold in packets. The ultra crunchy snack is actually fried fish coated in cornflakes and seaweed. It’s tasty on its own, though no one’s stopping me from dipping it into the lamb curry too. It is also not greasy.

Leaning towards the sweeter side, the Crab Nam Prik is like a dip, creamy and tangy with generous amount of shredded crab meat. It comes with the Pla Tod.

On the other end of the spectrum, there is the sweet Mango slices and Pak (bite-sized daikon), slowly easing diners to desserts.

A Southern Drink is offered as an intermission.

Embark on a sweet dessert journey, beginning with the Cha Nut Chocolate with pea sorbet. Meanwhile, the artful burrata-lookalike Suan Maprow surprises with its airy light coconut texture whipped without the use of cream. Underneath the layer are coconut and guava bits.

Khob Khun Krap, a round of petit fours is served as a means of saying thank you. Think stuffed Korean strawberry with red bean, banana in soft coconut mochi skin and Foi Thong-inspired sorbet with edible gold.

Each course at 80/20 Eighty Twenty is exquisite, indelible and meaningful. Chef Martin has a story and inspiration behind his creation, especially for his Suan Maprow. There is no dull moment here. Rather, it takes me on a culinary journey with unexpected ingredient combinations, down-to-earth cooking and a gain in Thai food knowledge. And of course, a wondrous service team that is swift and polite.